ITALY REVISITED.............................................. 189
1
NOTE
In December, 1879, M. William Henry Waddington resigned the Premiership of France, and the following month,
accompanied by his wife, left Paris for a winter of rest and recreation in Italy, chiefly in Rome. <...> The letters from Madame
Waddington to her mother and sister, which constitute “Part I”
of this volume, describe this journey and residence. <...> Those
forming “Part II” relate the incidents of a similar Roman sojourn some twenty years later, M. Waddington having died in
the meantime. <...> The two series together compose a picture of life
and society in the Italian capital with a wide range of contrast
and comparison, corresponding with those of London and Moscow in the well-known “Letters of a Diplomat’s Wife” by the
same writer.
2
PART I.
ITALY IN THE EIGHTIES
To G. K. S1
31, Rue Dumont d’Urville, Paris,
January 10, 1880. <...> Well, dear, here I am back again in my little hotel, and
very small and uncomfortable it looks — like a doll’s house
after the enormous rooms of the Quai d’Orsay — however I am
very glad to be a private individual once more (no longer a
“femme publique” as our friend used to say). <...> Our departure was
hurried, as once W2. had made up his mind and resigned he
wanted to get away at once. <...> Of course ever since the opening of
the session in November it was evident that he couldn’t stay. <...> He and his Ministers were hardly ever agreed on any point, and
it wasn’t worth while for him to spend his energy and intelligence in trying to carry out a policy which neither the Chamber
nor the country apparently desired. <...> I walked over with
Francis3, that he might say he had walked across the Seine. <...> We
had great difficulty in warming the house — many trains with
wood and coal were blocked just outside Paris, and nothing
could get in. <...> I don’t know what we should have done, but hap1
Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, née King. <...> W. here and throughout these letters <...>
Italian_letters_of_a_diplomat's_wife.pdf
ITALIAN LETTERS OF A
DIPLOMAT’S WIFE
January May, 1880
February April, 1904
BY
MARY KING WADDINGTON
ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS
AND PHOTOGRAPHS
SMITH, ELDER & CO.
LONDON 1905
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CONTENTS
NOTE ........................................................................................ 2
PART I. ITALY IN THE EIGHTIES........................................ 3
PART II. ITALY REVISITED.............................................. 189
1
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NOTE
In December, 1879, M. William Henry Waddington resigned
the Premiership of France, and the following month,
accompanied by his wife, left Paris for a winter of rest and recreation
in Italy, chiefly in Rome. The letters from Madame
Waddington to her mother and sister, which constitute “Part I”
of this volume, describe this journey and residence. Those
forming “Part II” relate the incidents of a similar Roman sojourn
some twenty years later, M. Waddington having died in
the meantime. The two series together compose a picture of life
and society in the Italian capital with a wide range of contrast
and comparison, corresponding with those of London and Moscow
in the well-known “Letters of a Diplomat’s Wife” by the
same writer.
2
Стр.3
PART I.
ITALY IN THE EIGHTIES
To G. K. S1
31, Rue Dumont d’Urville, Paris,
January 10, 1880.
Well, dear, here I am back again in my little hotel, and
very small and uncomfortable it looks — like a doll’s house
after the enormous rooms of the Quai d’Orsay — however I am
very glad to be a private individual once more (no longer a
“femme publique” as our friend used to say). Our departure was
hurried, as once W2. had made up his mind and resigned he
wanted to get away at once. We got off in two days, which I
thought quite wonderful. Of course ever since the opening of
the session in November it was evident that he couldn’t stay.
He and his Ministers were hardly ever agreed on any point, and
it wasn’t worth while for him to spend his energy and intelligence
in trying to carry out a policy which neither the Chamber
nor the country apparently desired. There were endless conferences
all through December, but it was clear that it was time for
him to go.
The weather was something awful — bitterly cold —
the Seine frozen tight, booths and games established, and everybody
sliding about and trying to skate — but that was under
difficulties as the ice was rough and uneven. I walked over with
Francis3, that he might say he had walked across the Seine. We
had great difficulty in warming the house — many trains with
wood and coal were blocked just outside Paris, and nothing
could get in. I don’t know what we should have done, but hap1
Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, née King.
2 W. here and throughout these letters refers to M. William Henry
Waddington, Madame Waddington’s husband.
3 Francis, son of M. and Madame Waddington.
3
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Italian letters of a diplomat’s wife
PART I
pily the Ministre de la Guerre gave us an order to take some
wood from some dépôt in Paris where they had a provision; so
for the two days before we moved in great fires were going in
the calorifère. I really think the only person who hated to leave
the Quai d’Orsay was Francis. He was furious at seeing all his
things packed up, and was carried out to the carriage kicking
and screaming — “veux pas quitter ma maison — veux pas aller
vilaine petite maison.” The huissiers (6, all standing solemnly
in a row to say good-bye) were much impressed, and the
old grey-headed Pierson who has been there for years and seen
many Ministers depart, remarked — “au moins Monsieur Francis
est désolé de partir.” It seemed funny to drive out of the big
gates for the last time. I wonder if I shall ever go through them
again. Things go so quickly in France now.
You can’t conceive anything more uncomfortable than
this house to-day — no carpets down nor curtains up; all the
furniture, books, rugs, dumped in the middle of the rooms, and
the hall and corridors full of trunks and boxes. W. has had a
steady stream of people ever since we arrived — some to condole
— some (old friends) to congratulate him upon no longer
serving such an infecte government — some a little embarrassed
to explain that, though they regret him extremely, still...
they must serve their country, and hope he wont take it amiss if
they make up to the rising sun (in the shape of Freycinet, who
has taken W.’s place). I expect we shall have some curious experiences.
When one is no longer in power it is surprising how
things change their aspect. I had to settle the salons as soon as I
could as I had invited a big party for Francis’s Christmas Tree,
thinking it would be at the Quai d’Orsay. I didn’t want to put
the people off — particularly the diplomatists who have all
been most civil and proper — so after a consultation with Kruft
— (chef du matériel at the Quai d’Orsay) who had already begun
to make his preparations, I decided to have it here, and
Kruft and one of his men came and helped dress it. Of course
the tree had to be cut at the top — our rooms are fairly high, but
nothing like the Quai d’Orsay naturally — but it looked rather
prettier, quite covered with toys and shiny ornaments. Francis
had beautiful presents — a hand-organ with a monkey on top
from Madame Sibbern, the wife of the Swedish Minister, from
4
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